New Toy!! DTF printer

 Many of you have seen the photo of the crate I received a few weeks ago. It contained a DTF printer and curing oven. DTF is Direct to Film, and is one way graphic decals are printed for t-shirts and other substrates. I did my research before investing (it's a good chunk of money for the equipment I bought), so I was aware there could be a few "challenges" to getting the setup done. There were, but honestly part of the difficulty was my own fault. Sit back, have a laugh, grit your teeth, and enjoy the story (or not) while I share.

Like I said, I did my research. Most of the videos and reviews clearly stated to be ready to call Customer Service for help setting up the software. RIP software is a conversion program that allows printers to "see" colors and receive the command to print theses colors, including white. Regular printers don't print white, they ignore the white spaces and your paper acts as the color there. This software is high dollar and ranges from $350 to over $1,000 if you buy it as a separate program. It really isn't hard to install. What throws people off is the need to use a "dongle" to start the program, and most of us think of a dongle as an extension plug or adapter plug. In the case of RIP software, it's a USB flash drive that holds the software key. The key is never installed to your computer, so it's necessary to have this flash drive to start the program.

The next thing you have to know is that most RIP software out there does not play well with anti-virus software. This has to be disabled completely to do the initial installation. Some RIP software may even require you leave it turned off permanently, so have a dedication computer or laptop for the printer, if possible. You will also need to add exceptions for the folder and main app file so your computer will allow the program to run once installed.

Yes, getting the software loaded and running was the easy part for me. Like I said, I did my research.

The first few test prints I did came out really nice, and I was excited! Until the printhead carriage lock stopped releasing. After a couple of hours trying to figure this out, I sent an email asking for assistance. Here's the downside - ALL of these printers are made in China. There is NO support elsewhere. There is NO manual. There is, however, a 12 to 15 hour time zone difference, so be prepared for WhatsApp messaging, and AnyDesk requests for the technicians to access your computer for the software aspect. No, they didn't download any virus or trojans. No, they didn't add any spyware. They simply went into the RIP software and configured it, then did a few test prints themselves. I sent photos and videos as requested so they could see the issues and results.

Turned out that the waste ink pump assembly (it has several names, depending on which YouTube video you watch) was damaged or defective, so a new one was sent out immediately. I got it just 7 days later. A few more YouTube videos, and assistance from my husband, meant we had that part changed out and the carriage was again running smoothly 2 days before my next scheduled tech call.

The next problem I had was entirely my own fault. During our initial testing and troubleshooting, I was asked to loosen an adjustment screw and raise the printhead off the print surface. I didn't realize this also raised the rollers that feed the print film, but it did. So once I got the pump assembly replaced, the film wasn't feeding. This was just a couple of days before Christmas and they offered to contact me on Christmas Eve day but I postponed until after the holiday.

Again with the help of my wonderful husband, we disassembled the printer in case we had something misaligned from installing the pump. Double-checked everything, and reassembled the printer. Then it hit me. That little adjustment screw. I went back to it, turned it a few times, and those rollers dropped right down into position. Time for a test print.

One thing you need to be aware of is that the white ink contains titanium oxide, which will settle in the tubes and at the printhead if the machine sits for any length of time. By the time I got my printer up and running again, I had not done any printing for about 10 days. End result is my colors were all printing, but the white was not. Now, this is a simple fix. Just clean the printheads and do a couple of test prints to get it flowing again. Only I couldn't find the menu for this.

On my printer, the status monitor has to be disabled inside the printer's main menu options in order for the RIP software to do its job. Easy click of the mouse. But I spent an unnecessary amount of time trying to find the maintenance commands. Hello, Tech Support. Inside the RIP software, you just right click and it pulls up the menu to access what I needed. Running the printhead clean cycle, a few more adjustments inside the software, and some test prints, and I'm back up and running!

NOTE: If you're thinking about buying into DTF printing, be aware that you must do a daily maintenance routine to prevent the white ink from settling and clogging the works. If you're going to be gone for a few days, it will probably be ok to skip, but if you're gone a week or longer, you're probably going to need to flush the printhead when you return, so have solution on hand.

I will also say this - no matter how you feel politically about China, they have excellent customer support when it comes to their products. Even though we didn't speak the same language, they used videos and had a verbal translator at hand so we were able to easily communicate. And my printer came with a full 1-year warranty, so I can contact them again if I need to.

Why are hand-made items so expensive?

 There's a question I deal with quite often. As a consumer, I have asked many times, "why is that so expensive". As a crafter, I have learned that to make these items has hidden costs that the buyers never consider. 

One of the most common items out there is graphic tees. Simple to make, fairly inexpensive for materials, right? Well, there's a bit more to it than that. Try shopping for 10 or more identical shirts in a variety of sizes. Let's assume you want sport grey because everyone carries that color. Gildan unisex 5.3 ounce heavy tees are often first to show up on the search list, and you can buy them at stores like Hobby Lobby, Michael's, and Joanne Fabrics in a pinch. Your cost will vary from store to store, usually between $3.99-$4.99, as will their stock and color selection. Online wholesalers (and no, that doesn't include Amazon) are going to be anywhere from 10% to 15% less, but if you don't reach a minimum purchase amount you've got to account for shipping costs, which can range from $4.95 up to $14.95. And you don't always get to choose the cheapest or type of shipping you want. 

Jiffy Shirts is one of my go-to vendors. If I want those 10 shirts to come from their store, this color costs $2.77 each pre-tax and shipping. Once those are added in that batch of 10 shirts, which includes only adult small through adult extra large, my cost is averaged out to $3.27 per shirt. If I need 2xl or larger, I'm going to pay more than double for the 2xl, and even more for each increase in size. 

Now that I have my shirts coming, I need to see about the decals. Typical decals for home crafters are heat transfer vinyl that is made using something like a Cricut or Silhouette desktop cutter. Those little toys are ever-increasing in cost, and currently run from $180 - $430 each, plus tax. It's going to take quite a few shirt sales to recoup that cost.

Let's not forget the vinyl and the design files. A small roll of HTV can be $8 on up for just plain colors. These can make at least 2 or 3 decals, depending on how big the decal is. For 10 shirts with a basic 3-line quote, I would need about 6 feet of 12" vinyl. If I buy that from a wholesaler, I will pay $12-$14 for that. 

And if I design my own files, I will need to have a machine that includes free access to the cutter manufacturer's design site, pay for a subscription to one, find free software such as InkScape, or buy software such as Adobe Illustrator. If I want a ready-to-use file, that will cost anywhere from $3 to $7 depending on where I find what I want.

Last, but certainly not least, I've got to have a heat press to proper apply those decals. The Cricut Easy Press is currently running about $130 on average, and a full-size heat press will be twice that easily.

So just to get my t-shirt business started, I've got to spend $465 or more. Obviously, I need to sell more than 10 shirts to recoup this, but if I charge just bargain basement sales prices, I may not before my machines wear out and have to be serviced or replaced. And I haven't even accounted for my time investment yet. I may spend just a couple of hours on these shirts, but my time should be worth more than minimum wage. If I paid myself just $9/hour, that's $18 labor, or less than $2 per shirt that I'm paying myself. 

The reality is that to make something by hand, or not by mass manufacturing, it takes more time, and it typically costs more just to get things rolling. I have long ago recouped the costs for my cutter (which is a commercial unit, not a Cricut) and my heat press (commercial unit number 2 is in use now), but that took almost 3 years. And I would not have done it that fast if I hadn't been fortunate enough to have been contacted by Fox News when I put out the Deplorable Me shirts in 2016. Incidentally, that's also the reason my first heat press gave out.

As easy as shirts are to do, there are so many other crafts that take much more time and effort, so the this should be reflected in the sales price. When you buy hand-crafted items, you're not only supporting a small business, you're typically supporting local businesses and economy. Stop grumbling that it should be cheaper because it's not big-box, and pay out for better quality that's made here at home.

I Am Woman

 Hear me roar! (That means I'm about to offend people again, and I really don't care.) Consider this your only warning, as well as your opportunity to walk away, and go troll somewhere else.

Self-declarative 1: I am a woman. In every sense of the word - biologically, emotionally, physically, etc. I was born this way, and I won't apologize for it. I am content to continue to be what I am. I am NOT, however, a feminist. 

Self-declarative 2: My personal beliefs and faith are mine, and you are not obligated to share them. I have many friends with whom I disagree on certain points, but we are still friends. We have learned that we can be, in spite of differences in politics, religion, and other major idealistic opinions.

Self-declarative 3: I don't make posts and blogs for the sole purpose of seeing what kind of reactions I can stir up. I make them because I have the right to self-expression, and I want to exercise that right. Your opinions aren't really necessary, and many times are not wanted. I'm just having my say on my page, in my blog.

Now that's done, if you're still with me, thanks! :)

And it's not too late to change your mind and go read someone else's post.

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Once again, I'm seeing posts and articles about why women exist. Oh, how I want to go "enlighten" a few testosterone-loaded idiots! Not to mention educate their female counterparts on why God created male AND female. It wasn't just for sexual pleasure and producing offspring, folks. I'm not a degree-toting theologian, but let me help you out a bit.

Genesis 1:27 is the first record of God's creation of mankind in two genders. "Male and female he created them." Yes, verse 28 gives the instruction to "be fruitful and multiply". But the human population at that time was two, not several billion. But it didn't stop there. Try reading Genesis 4:18, where God states that man (who was created first) should not remain alone, but needs a helpmeet (an assistant, a partner, a co-worker, a friend). The animals were not sufficient for the task, so in verse 22, God took a rib from Adam and created Eve. Guess what, guys! That woman on your arm is to be considered a part of you! She's not property. She's not a toy. She's not just your personal bedwarmer. Stop treating her like that, and saying it's God's will and instructions for marital bliss. God never instructed you to abuse or take advantage of any woman. You don't carry that "manhood card" because it was never issued!

Men, stop telling your wives that they exist just for your sexual pleasure, and they should be totally submissive in the bedroom. You're not behaving like the head of the house when you do this. You're behaving like a domineering jerk who has chosen not to exercise any self-control when it comes to your own lust. 

Stop telling women that they are only supposed to stay home and raise babies, while cleaning house and cooking dinner. Stop telling your daughters that is why God created them. Stop telling them they don't need to be well-educated, or shouldn't concern themselves with having personal cash. Stop telling them they should be 100% dependent on a man for every aspect of their life and well-being. These are more lies and propaganda. And they are NOT biblical. These ideas have been taken completely out of context from the Bible's instructions, and twisted around to suit particular individuals and groups. (You know who you are!)

Take a look at Ephesians 5:25-31. You've heard and read it before, I'm sure. And just as easily forgotten or ignored it because it doesn't fit in with your personal ideals. "Husbands, love your wives, as Christ loved the church and gave himself up for her".  Physical, emotional, psychological, and sexual abuse are not methods of love, but control. Ladies, that's a two-way street. Don't treat your spouse like garbage and call it love, or admonition in the Lord. That's a flat-out lie.

Women were not, and are not, creatures who cannot manage to walk without a man telling them where to place their feet. They are not ignorant, and were not meant to be kept ignorant. Our place in your lives is far more than just "barefoot and pregnant".

Oh. My. Word.

WARNING - Many of you will find this post offensive for any number of reasons. That doesn't mean I have targeted you specifically. It means my opinion and thoughts are different from yours. And believe me, on this particular topic, there will be differences of opinion and thought. So if you're going to go into "oversensitive mode", just stop reading right now and go find something else to do. Because I am going to be very blunt.

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Thanks for sticking around. Again, I warn you that this is a very sensitive topic. And I'm not really interested in your opinion, even if you do agree with me. I'm stating what should have been pointed out years ago, and I only recently have been learning. Hold on to your hats, because here we go.

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In my personal journey of faith and discovery, I've made a lot of changes. Maybe I should say the Holy Spirit has made a lot of changes in me. I've learned that much of what I was taught, and much of what I assumed to be correct, is really on the wrong side of the fence from where I should have been. One of those areas relates back to the so-called Purity Pledge. Remember those days? My assumption was that the intent of this pledge was for our young people to keep themselves modest and sexually pure until marriage. Although that technically is true, it is only a small part of the indoctrination we were subjecting our young people to. Yes, I said indoctrination.

I honestly had no clue that our teens were being taught that the girls were responsible for a teen boy's lustful thoughts. I had no idea that they were being told boys had sex on the brain because it's in their nature, and so it's up to girls to not provoke impure thoughts in them, rather than the boys being taught self-control and restraint in their thoughts and actions towards girls!!

Pastors, youth pastors, Sunday School teachers, parents - if you taught this, or knowingly allowed it to be taught to your children, you are guilty of sexualizing our girls, while telling the boys it's okay because "they can't help themselves"! Let me take that one step further and say that you are making our girls out to be natural whores, while telling the boys rape is not their fault should they commit that particular violation.

You are guilty of teaching our youth that girls are only good for sex. That if a boy takes advantage of her, it's the girl's fault regardless of circumstances. You are guilty of devaluing our girls in the very same way girls in the middle east are devalued. (Need I explain that?)

You are also guilty of making our girls victims of sexual and emotional abuse because these teachings tell her that she is to carry the blame of someone else's sin nature. And that's not something she can atone for.

You have also told her that her only worth as a wife is to provide for her husband's carnal desires, regardless of her own needs and feelings. That if the marriage is not what it should be, it's her fault because she's not "putting out" like she ought to.

I can't tell you how this angered me when I learned about it. And I'm going to put the record straight here and now. NOWHERE IN THE BIBLE does it say any of this stuff! Not one verse says the women are to blame for a man's lustful thoughts when they happen to be in the same room together. Unless that woman is a declared prostitute. But even then, that man has made a conscious choice regarding his sexual desires.

Nowhere in the Bible have I read that women are good only for sex. Nowhere. Unless I am drastically deluded, I believe it says women are to be treated respectfully. Husbands are to LOVE their wives, not molest them or other women uncontrollably.  Neither are we told it's okay because men "can't help themselves".

We are told that women were created as a helpmeet, a compliment to man. A partner. HOW DARE ANYONE take that so completely out of context and twist it like it has been done!! How dare anyone tear our girls and young ladies down like that!! We are all created in God's image. Do you really think He had nothing but carnal sex on his mind when He created Eve? If you do, you're worshiping the wrong god.

Yes, if I could go back, there are definitely some things I would have done differently. No parent can say otherwise. But I made it a point to try and teach my daughter self-worth. I taught my sons that they, and they alone, are responsible for controlling their natural urges. And yes, I also taught them that if they just couldn't keep themselves in check until they got married, they were responsible for the outcome. Not the girl. Even if she's a willing partner in sex outside of marriage, it's never always and only her fault. There are two people involved. (Keep in mind, sexual assault is a whole different thing, and is completely the fault of the person committing that assault).

Parents, it is your responsibility to know what your children are being taught in any faith-based situation, be it summer camp, Sunday School, Youth Rally, whatever. Ask your children questions. And answer openly and honestly any questions they have. I have still got an open-door policy with my kids even though they are well into adulthood. If you feel like something isn't quite right, question it. Don't assume the kids are exaggerating or being dramatic because they're upset or angry about something they don't want to go into detail on. Follow your gut instinct, and ask that pastor/youth pastor/teacher/camp leader! If the things being taught are not biblical, get your child out of that situation immediately. Protect that gift God has blessed you with!

Homegrown, Home Canned - How about those pickles?

 To me, the absolute easiest thing to do is make pickles. I admit it - I cheat on this one. I do not brine my cucumbers. I use a prepackaged mix for flavoring. But the advantage to this is crisper pickles, and the flavor is ALWAYS consistent. 

Needed:

Towel for countertop. I use a bath towel that's folded in half.

Water. Jar tongs, ladle, wide mouth canning funnel, measuring cup, spoon or spatula for stirring.

Sugar if you're making sweet or bread and butter pickles.

5% acidity white vinegar. You can buy the vinegar labeled specifically for pickling, but this is the same thing for less cost.

Mrs. Wage's Quick Pickle mix. I use pretty much every flavor the company makes, and have had success with every batch.

Pickle Crisp. I just started adding this last season, and it does help keep the end product firmer and crunchier.

Pickling cucumbers. If you don't grow your own, get them from a local farmer's market stand. You can use the slicers sold in the grocery store, but they are more likely to soften when processed. If you go this route, I would use them only for spears or wedges. They are generally too tall to process whole, and slicing them might mean you end up with really soggy pickles. They also can have a wax coating on them, which has to be cleaned off.

And of course, you need jars with rings and seals. Run the jars through a hot dishwasher cycle OR hand wash in hot, soapy water to be sure they are thoroughly clean. Put the seals in a small pot of boiling hot water (no heat while the seals are in it!). This will sterilize the seals, and soften the compound for better sealing results.

Pickles are high acid and don't need to be pressurized. Use a large, wide stock pot with a dish towel on the bottom, or use a water bath pot with a jar rack. You will need to put enough water in the pot to cover the jars by about 1 inch during processing. This water needs to be boiling BEFORE you put the jars in.

What to do:

Follow the package instructions! This might seem obvious, but it amazes me how many times I am asked what I do to make pickles. Basically, you're going to put the water, vinegar, and pickle mix into a pot and bring the mixture to a near boil. Stir to mix. Keep the mixture hot until ready to use. That's it.

Wash your cucumbers, and slice them into wedges, spears, slices. Or leave them whole. Whatever you like. If you use a mandolin slicer (which I do), BE CAREFUL!! They Bite!!! I've sliced my finger and thumb more than once on that thing. Using a food processor with a slicing blade might be easier, but you may not get the thickness on the slices that you want. Or do it by hand with a knife. It's your choice.

Once the cucumbers are washed and cut, put them into clean jars. Pack them fairly tightly. They will loosen during processing simple because they will soften to a certain point from the heat. Add the pickle mixture until it's at the bottom of the threads of the jar. 

With a damp (not wet) cloth or paper towel, wipe the jar rim. Make sure there are no seeds or cucumber bits on that rim or your jars will not seal! Place the seal on the clean rim, and put the ring on. Hand tighten the ring - don't make it super tight, and don't leave it loose enough to wiggle.

Use the jar tongs to place the closed jars into the water bath. Don't try this with bare fingers. Remember, that water pot should have boiling water in it! And the pickle mix should still be hot enough to heat the jars when you have filled them. Depending on the size of your pot and your jars, you should be able to process between 5 and 10 jars at a time.

Bring the water back to a boil, set a timer, and let the water do its thing. When finished, turn off the heat and wait 5 minutes. Then use the jar tongs to lift the jars out. Place the hot jars on the towel to cool. This will help minimize water puddling on the counter, and keep your area cleaner. 

Processing times - Remember that time starts only after the water in the pot is boiling again:

Pint jars - 10 minutes    Quart jars - 15 minutes

That little "pop" you may hear is the seal being completed. The center of the seal is sucked downward as air is forced from the jar. Once the jars are completely cool, check the seal by pressing gently in that middle area. If you cannot feel any movement, your seal is complete. If the middle pops down and back up, the seal didn't form correctly, and that jar should be refrigerated.

Use a marker or label to date your pickles. Mark the seals, or put paper labels on them. I don't label t
he jars themselves because it's just too hard to remove later on. The seals are generally rated for 18 months, but I keep pickles up to 24 months. They will hold longer, but since I make fresh batches every season, I try to use up or give away extras to keep a fresh rotation in the pantry.

Homegrown, Home Canned - Pressure Canner

 Pressure canning is the method most people think of when talking about home canning foods. And it can be a scary topic if you're unfamiliar with processing your own foods. Don't let it put you off, though. This method has been used for DECADES, and done right, there's no worry about contamination or food going bad before the recommended use by/expiration period. The drawback is that pressure canning requires you to stay close by and watch things, even though they are in a sealed pot. Heat may need to be increased or decreased several times during processing in order to keep the right amount of pressure to kill bacteria. Time needs to be monitored so foods are not over or under processed. And the initial cost of a pressure canner can be more than you want to invest. You just have to remember that it's a piece of equipment that will probably outlast you. I'm currently using one of two pressure canners my mother had in her own kitchen for no less than 40 years!

 On occasion (years, not weeks or months), the rubber gasket may need replacing. And even more rarely, the pressure gauge might need to be replaced. If you buy one with a wire jar basket, that basket will rust over time due to water exposure. Otherwise, these babies keep on going! Once you have your pressure canner, you are able to do practically any food preservation you like. These are large enough that they can be used without the lids as water bath pots. And the bottom rack to set the jars on is included. It's usually made of aluminum, so no rust here!

Pressure canning is absolutely required for low acid foods like vegetables, greens, and beans. These foods need higher temperatures to kill bacteria than jams or tomatoes, and pressure is the only way to achieve that in a home kitchen. When you get your pressure canner, READ THE MANUAL. If you buy one used (2 of mine came from the thrift store), look online for a manual, or at the very least, a reliable website that will explain the do's and don't of pressure canning. And don't be afraid to buy a book or two on home canning. My favorites are Better Homes and Garden's Complete Canning Guide, and Ball's Blue Book: Guide to Preserving. I advise against using book published prior to 1975 because of advances in food preservation methods since those earlier days, but by all means, check out the recipes in them!

I harvested the first bunch of green beans from my garden yesterday. In another two days, that one pound will be joined by 8-10 pounds, so that means next week, I can officially begin my canning season for this year!

Homegrown, Home Canned - Food Choices for the Water Bath Method

What do you want to preserve, and where can you find it? Well, the obvious answers are everything, and pretty much anywhere. The real answers are not so cut and dried. For instance, my garden typically has tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, white and red potatoes, green beans, sweet peas, black-eyed peas, and squash. Sometimes it includes okra, radishes, bell peppers, lettuce, turnip greens, broccoli, and more. It depends on the weather, seed availability, and other factors as to what actually produces. What I don't grow here, I get either at the produce stand or as a last resort, the grocery store. Even so, I don't put up everything I do harvest or buy. So the real answer is that you can preserve almost anything as long as you do it properly. If you don't grow it yourself, you may or may not find it elsewhere. And if you outsource, you're going to pay for that fresh food, so don't freak out about the cost.

Each season, I generally start prepping in March or April. The garden has already be planted, or re-planted if that's necessary. I give my kitchen a thorough cleaning, including my pantry. I want to be sure I don't have foods that are out of date still on the shelf. Most home-canned items are generally good for up to 2 years, but 18 months is the recommendation from jar seal manufacturers. This is why it's so very important to label things before you store them up.

The easiest way to begin the season is with things that process in a water bath, which is basically a large, fat stock pot with a rack to keep jars off the bottom of the pot. This is great for high acid foods, that do not need to be pressurized. This is also the least expensive way to process foods for storage. Walmart has an inexpensive stovetop version for just $12.00 listed on their website, so don't feel you need to spend $150 at Bed, Bath, and Beyond for the plug-in version.

 For pickles, you need pickling cucumbers. You can use the slicers sold in the stores, but be aware that these will not hold their crispy bite as well as the pickling variety. You also need white vinegar (yes, pickling vinegar is the same stuff at a higher price) and pickling spices. I use Mrs. Wages brand because they are the most consistent packages I have found, are reasonably priced, and always have a good flavor. I have also started adding a product called Pickle Crisp, which helps keep the crunch better.

For jelly or jam, you need fruit. Fresh or frozen, it doesn't matter. If you start from a juice rather than fruit, DO NOT get refined juices. I buy Martinelli's unfiltered apple juice, but all other jellies come from whole fruit. Strawberries are a low pectin fruit, and do not set as firmly as apple or other berries, so be aware of this when cooking it down. You also need Sure Jell (I use the yellow box - the pink box is low sugar, and sets differently) or Ball's fruit pectin. Two tablespoons is equal to one box of Sure Jell. And since we're talking sweet things, sugar is a primary ingredient. Each batch uses between 7 and 9 cups of sugar, depending on the fruit.

A third option to begin with is tomatoes. Whole, sliced, diced, crushed, pureed, juiced - whatever form you like. Again, I buy Mrs. Wages Salsa and Pasta Sauce mixes. I also can the tomatoes whole and pureed for soup. (I can't even begin to describe the difference between this soup and that condensed junk in a can!)

When I schedule canning classes, these will be the first items we prepare, so if you're going to join us, have your mind made up which one you want to start with. Each group and class will be based on this selection.